Christmas in Spain has a very different feel to it than in Poland. There is less tension, less chasing after perfection and more levity, light and the simple joy of being together. It is not a Christmas enclosed within four walls – Spaniards celebrate it long, quietly and often away from home. For many people coming here for the first time, this is a big surprise.
For Spaniards, the festive season starts much earlier than you might think. As early as 22 December, the whole country is alive with the drawing of the Christmas Lottery, or the famous ‘El Gordo’. This event is watched by millions of people, often at work, in bars or at home with their families. Interestingly, the tickets are bought collectively – with office colleagues, neighbours or family – so even a small win becomes a reason for joy and celebration together. On that day, the festive atmosphere is already palpable everywhere.
There are decorations in the houses and on the streets, but unlike in Poland, the most important symbol is not the Christmas tree, but the nativity scene, or ‘Belén’. Spaniards attach great importance to them. They are often very elaborate, full of details, small figures, scenes of town life and landscapes. Many towns have nativity scene exhibitions and viewing them is a popular family custom at Christmas time.
Christmas Eve, or Nochebuena, looks very different from what we are used to in Poland. There is no fasting or specific set of dishes. Dinner starts late, often as late as nine in the evening, and is more of a feast than a symbolic ritual. Seafood, meats, cheeses, tapas and all sorts of sweets dominate the tables. The atmosphere is relaxed, conversations go on for a long time, and some families still go out for a walk or to meet relatives after dinner. For some, the important moment is the shepherdess, while others prefer to simply enjoy the evening at their own pace.
Christmas Day itself is quiet and unhurried. It is a time for family dinners, relaxation and being together. In the warmer regions of Spain, no one is surprised by a walk in the sun, coffee on the terrace or children playing outside. The day has a more everyday, natural feel to it – no pressure or over-preparation.
Many Poles are surprised to learn that presents are not the most important thing on 24 or 25 December. In Spain, the real gift-giving day is only on 6 January, the feast of the Three Kings. This is when children find presents which, according to tradition, are brought to them by the Three Kings. The day before, on 5 January, towns and cities hold colourful parades, full of music, lights and joy. For children, this is one of the most anticipated moments of the whole year.
Sweets are also an integral part of the holidays. Instead of gingerbread and poppy seed cake, tables are set with turrón in various versions, crispy polvorones, marzipan and sweet wines and cava. These flavours accompany Spaniards throughout December and only disappear after Epiphany.
The biggest difference between Christmas in Spain and those known in Poland is the approach. Here, what matters is the atmosphere, the time spent together and the enjoyment of the moment, rather than a perfectly recreated scheme. Christmas is more ‘out there’ – in the streets, squares, cafés – and less focused on formal traditions. This is why many people who spend Christmas in Spain once start dreaming of returning here for Christmas every year.
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